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your tiling carefully and buy all the tiles you will need in one go
making sure they are suitable for where you plan to lay them. Tiles
can vary slightly in shade, and your retailer may not have any more
in stock if you run out. Allow 10% extra for breakages and cutting. |
Make sure you
have the necessary equipment at hand: |
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Suggested Check List:
*Tiles *Adhesive and grout *Gauging batten *Battens for setting
out *Plumb line *PVA adhesive *Tape measure *Tile spacers
(not always required for some tiles, ask for advice) *Notched
spreader *Straight edge *Tile scorer *Snapping pliers *Tile
cutter *Tile saw *Damp sponge for wiping away excessive adhesive
and grout *Grout spreader *Grout finisher *Silicone sealant
*Tile nippers
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| Wall Preparation |
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First find
out how many tiles you will need. Use a gauging batten with
the tile size and 3mm of grout marked along (see diagram).
Consider 'centring' tiles around windows and washbasins. Before
fixing tiles check all tile boxes have the same batch numbers
as tiles can vary in shade. The surface you plan to tile needs
to be clean dry and flat. If you have recently plastered the
wall you will have to. Wait about 4 weeks to allow the plaster
to fully dry out. Cracks and holes need to be filled in first
with suitable filler. |
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Floor
Preparation |
Mark the height of a floor tile on the
door and architrave, as they will need to be trimmed to
allow the new floor tiles underneath (add about 4mm extra
clearance on the door). Remove skirting boards by carefully
levering them away from the walls. Take a note of which
skirting board goes where, so they can easily be replaced
when you have finished.
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It is
important that flooring tiles look straight in relation
to the walls of the room. One of the most important
viewpoints is from the doorway so make sure that the
tiles look straight from here. Mark a line along the
centre of the room with chalk and lag the tiles out
to see how they fit. If the final gap to the wall is
less than half a tile then move the tiles away from
the centre line to have half tile width at the room
edges.
All floors have to be level and free from movement when
walked on. Floorboards that may be prone to 'flexing'
have need be covered with 18mm plywood, making sure
that no screw heads protrude above the surface, and
heated with a suitable primer. When using primer treatments
always make sure the room is well ventilated.
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Concrete
needs to be at least 6 weeks old and flat with no lumps
and bumps. Screeded concrete needs to be at least 3
weeks old and again free from lumps and depressions.
A suitable waterproof sealant is required before the
tiles can be laid, but check that the sealant you use
is compatible with your adhesive. If you are tiling
over existing glazed quarry tiles, a cement based adhesive
with BAL-ADMIX AD is recommended. If the quarry tiles
are un-glazed, cement-based adhesive is acceptable.
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| Tiling on a plain surface
(the main area) |
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Secure
your starting battens in place making sure they are straight
and square with a spirit level (see fig.1) Spread the tile
adhesive using the notched spreader evenly. Cover approximately
1 square metre at a time. |
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Place your tiles using a 'sliding action'
into place. The sliding action ensures an even covering
of adhesive behind the tile. Remember to place tile spacer
between each tile, as this will allow accurate and even
spacing.
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It’s a good idea to regularly
check the tiles are straight using your spirit level, as you
go along. Wipe away any tile adhesive that squeezes out with
a cloth or sponge. There will be no room to apply the grout
if excessive adhesive is visible around the tiles |
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Cutting
tiles |
Tiles will have to be cut to shape, to
fit around plug sockets, pipes, bathroom fittings, etc.
This can take a little practice so be prepared to have some
spare tiles handy as all ceramic tiles break easily. You
will also have to take care when handling cut tiles, as
they are very sharp. We recommend wearing safety goggles
and protection gloves when trimming and fitting cut tiles.
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For simple
straight cuts tiles can be scored with a tile cutter and then
snapped off to leave the desired size. If you only need to
trim the edge of the tile, score it and use a pair of tile
nippers to 'nibble off' the excess.
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To cut more complicated shapes you may
find it easier to make a template and transfer this to the
tile and use a tile saw. Cutting large holes in tiles may
be required for fitting around pipes. It is best achieved
by cutting the tile into two halves and cutting out a semi
circle
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| GROUTING |
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When all the main tiles are
in place, you will have to allow the adhesive to dry. This will
take about 24 hours. Using a grout spreader, push the grout
into all of the gaps |
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When the grout is in
place you can create a professional finish using a grout finisher.
Wipe any excess grout from the tile surface, and buff up the
tiles with a soft cloth |
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Grouting alone is not
suitable for providing a seal where it will get wet on a regular
basis, i.e. around the edges of a bath or shower. For this
a silicone or mastic sealant should be applied. As an alternative
to sealant several proprietary sealing strips are available. |
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Finishing
It may be necessary to coat your new floor with a sealant to cope
with wear and make it easier to clean. Not all tiles need finishing,
as they may be pre-treated. Some tiles can be polished with wax.
Check with your retailer and ask for advice on which is the best
for your floor. Be careful not to make the floor too slippery
and make sure rugs and mats are securely fixed down.
SAFETY!!!
Always keep work tools away from children * Wear protective clothing
when necessary * Beware of hidden pipes and cables * Beware of
cut tile edges.
REMEMBER!
Although every effort has been made to ensure that the tips given
in this leaflet will allow you to undertake any job safely, it
may be necessary to seek expert advice. In the event of difficulty
do not hesitate to call us for advice.
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